Dirty Down Effects are water‑based special‑effects paints that dry into convincing weathering layers (rust, moss, verdigris). Unlike standard acrylics or washes, they form natural textures and tonal shifts as they cure and can be re‑activated with water for adjustments.

Use a clean, primed surface—matte or satin primers work best. These paints adhere to plastic, resin, metal, wood, MDF, and foam. Avoid glossy bases (they can resist the effect) unless you lightly scuff or switch to a satin/matte primer.

Shake thoroughly. Load the brush and dab or stipple—don’t over‑brush while drying. Build with thin passes for variation. For streaks, rewet the top edge and pull downward. For pitting, let small pools dry undisturbed, then soften with a damp brush.

Yes. Dirty Down Effects re‑activate with clean water. Use a damp brush or cotton swab to blend edges, lighten heavy spots, or lift back to the base layer. This makes fine control easy even after the initial cure.

Rust simulates oxidized steel/iron from fresh orange to deep brown; Moss adds organic green growth to stone, brick, and timber; Verdigris creates aged copper/bronze patina from turquoise to sea‑green. Layer and spot‑blend for complex aging.

Yes. After fully dry, seal with light mist coats of an acrylic varnish (matte/satin). Avoid heavy wet coats or brushing on varnish, which can disturb the re‑activatable layer. Test first; solvent rattle‑cans can shift tone if applied too wet.

Primarily a brush‑on product, but it can be airbrushed if lightly thinned with water (start ~5–15%) through a 0.3–0.4 mm nozzle at low PSI. Spray in light passes and clean immediately with water/appropriate cleaner to prevent residue.

Tide marks: Reduce pooling and work in thinner layers. Beading: Surface is too glossy—use matte/satin primer. Too strong: Re‑wet and blend back. Storage: Keep sealed; add a few drops of distilled water if thickened (avoid additives/mediums).

Works over cured acrylic basecoats. You can layer acrylic filters, oils, or enamels on top after sealing. If using enamel/oil streaking later, ensure the Dirty Down layer is sealed and fully cured to avoid reactivation or lifting.