Why Historical Miniatures Are Growing in Popularity (2025 Guide)
Why Historical Miniatures Are Growing in Popularity (2025 Guide)
From small WWII skirmishes to sweeping Napoleonic battles, historical miniatures have entered a golden moment. Painters love the grounded references, gamers love the scenario variety, and collectors appreciate how far a budget can go. If you’ve wondered why so many hobbyists are adding Romans, Redcoats, or rifle squads to their shelves, this guide explains the big reasons behind the boom—and how to jump in without feeling overwhelmed.
10 Reasons Historical Miniatures Are Surging
1) Clear, Fast‑Playing Rules
Modern historical rule sets emphasize clean turn cycles, intuitive morale, and cinematic scenarios. Whether you’re playing a 60–90‑minute platoon action or a Saturday mass battle, the systems are written to get new players from “rules read” to “first game” quickly.
2) Affordable Entry & Easy Expansions
Plastic infantry boxes and multi‑kit vehicles make it surprisingly affordable to start. You can field a learning force with a couple of squads and a support team, then add one unit at a time until you’re tournament‑ready. No single “must‑buy” model gates your collection.
3) Painting With Real‑World References
Historical uniforms are widely documented—museums, reenactors, photographs, Osprey plates—so you can match palettes precisely or pick a credible tone and focus on speed. It’s deeply satisfying to watch a unit come together with authentically weathered cloth, wood stocks, and metal wear.
4) A Hobby That Teaches History
Every project becomes its own mini‑course. You’ll learn why a regiment wore certain facings, how supply lines shaped campaigns, or which terrain types defined a theater. Historical gaming blends craft, gaming, and research like few hobbies can.
5) Multiple Scales & Table Sizes
Pick the canvas that fits your space and time:
- 28 mm: Characterful minis, great for skirmish and small battles, satisfying painting detail.
- 15 mm / 1:100: Ideal for company‑level WWII or big Napoleonic regiments on modest tables.
- 10–6 mm: Massed formations and grand tactics in an evening.
6) Terrain Builds Are Half the Fun
Historical tables are a hobby within the hobby: farmhouses, bocage, bridges, trenches, ruins. MDF kits and printable files make it easy to theme a board and keep replayability high—no two games need to look alike.
7) Scenario‑Driven Gaming
Most historical systems shine in missions with objectives and asymmetry—convoys, demolitions, river crossings, relief forces, encirclements. If you like stories with stakes, historical offers endless narrative hooks.
8) Welcoming Clubs & Campaign Nights
Stores and clubs often run map‑based campaigns or escalation leagues that reward painted forces and sportsmanship. Because armies grow in small increments, new players can join mid‑season without feeling behind.
9) Kitbashing Within Credible Limits
You can personalize gear and poses while staying “period correct.” Swapping heads, adjusting equipment, and mixing winter/summer pieces within a theater gives your units personality without breaking immersion.
10) A Refreshing Break From Sci‑Fi Fatigue
If you’ve painted power armor for years, a project grounded in linen, wool, leather, wood, and mud is a refreshing change of pace. Many hobbyists keep both sci‑fi and historical armies for variety.
What Eras Are Most Popular Right Now?
There’s no single “best” period—pick what excites you. These eras currently attract the broadest interest:
- World War II: Flexible platoon‑level play with iconic infantry, tanks, artillery, and airborne operations. Great for scenario variety and terrain projects.
- Napoleonic Wars: Massed musket lines, cavalry charges, gun batteries, and banners—ideal if you enjoy regimental painting and grand tactics.
- Ancients & Medieval: Shield walls, phalanxes, skirmishers, chariots, and knights. Excellent for players who love melee‑centric battles and bold heraldry.
- American Civil War: Large formations, artillery duels, and dramatic scenario play—bridges, rail lines, river crossings.
- Mid‑20th‑Century Theaters Beyond Europe: Desert campaigns, jungle fighting, and amphibious assaults add unique painting and terrain challenges.
How to Choose Your First Historical Army
- Pick a theater & timeframe: “NW Europe 1944,” “Peninsular War,” or “Italy 1943” is more actionable than “World War II” or “Napoleonics” in general.
- Choose a scale that fits your space: 28 mm for character and skirmish; 15 mm or smaller for big formations on smaller tables.
- Decide your game style: Fast pickup games? Try platoon‑level WWII. Love big set‑piece battles? Go for regiments and batteries.
- Start at a learning point level: A couple of infantry squads, one support weapon (mortar/sniper/AT), and either a vehicle or artillery piece.
- Plan a paint recipe: Write a 5‑line card (primer, base tones, wash, highlight mix, basing). Consistency across the army beats chasing the “perfect” color.
- Build in sub‑assemblies: Leave off backpacks, shields, or weapons that block brush access; varnish matte to unify the finish.
Starter Army Templates (Copy & Adapt)
WWII Platoon (28 mm) – Learn the Ropes
- Officer + runner
- Two infantry squads with LMGs
- Medium mortar with spotter
- AT rifle or light AT team or small armored car
- Optional: one light tank or a medium howitzer (pick one early)
Why it works: Pins from the mortar, area denial from the howitzer or MGs, and a single armor piece to teach threat ranges. Expand with a third squad and a transport for objective missions.
Napoleonic Battalion (15–28 mm) – Flags & Formations
- Two line infantry units
- One light infantry or skirmisher unit
- One artillery battery (light or medium)
- Optional: one small cavalry unit for flanks and pursuit
Why it works: You’ll practice formations (line, column, square) and learn how guns control space while light troops screen advances.
Ancients Skirmish (28 mm) – Shields & Spears
- One heavy infantry block (shieldwall or phalanx)
- One light infantry/javelin unit
- One archer/slinger unit
- Optional: a small cavalry troop
Why it works: Simple, evocative profiles and clear roles. Terrain and flank timing matter more than raw stats.
Painting Fast, Authentic, and Consistent
WWII Quick Recipes
- US Olive Drab: Prime OD → brown wash → OD highlight → khaki webbing → matte varnish → light dust on boots.
- German Field Grey: Field‑grey base → sepia wash → desaturated grey‑green highlight → muted helmet chips.
- Soviet 4BO Green: Green base → dark brown wash → warm green highlight → dusty base for Eastern Front.
Napoleonic & Ancients Quick Wins
- French Blue: Deep blue → dark wash → mid‑blue highlight → small light‑blue edge on lapels.
- British Redcoat: Deep red → brown wash → scarlet highlights → tiny orange‑red on highest folds.
- Bronze & Linen: Bronze base + brown wash + brass edge; linen = khaki base → sepia wash → bone highlight.
Weathering for Realism
- Dust & mud: Drybrush mid‑tan on boots and cuffs; stipple darker mud near soles.
- Wood stocks: Mid‑brown base → dark wash → fine lighter streaks for grain.
- Decals: Gloss patch → Micro Set/Sol → matte; glaze a little dust over edges to blend.
Terrain & Table Design (Fun to Build, Great to Play)
- Balance lines of sight: Provide two routes to every objective—one risky (fast), one safer (slow).
- Theme your board: Bocage lanes, village crossroads, stone walls, orchards—historical tables look stunning with a few signature pieces.
- Make it modular: Scatter terrain and removable roofs keep games dynamic and hobby time manageable.
Solo & Cooperative Options
Historical games adapt well to solo mission packs and co‑op “AI defender” setups. Write a simple behavior table (hold, counterattack, withdraw) and you can learn rules while completing a patrol or demolition scenario at your own pace.
Budget & Time Savers
- Batch in tens: Paint 8–10 figures at a time; one color across the batch before moving on.
- Speed recipes: Zenithal prime → base → targeted wash → one highlight. Save multi‑step blends for heroes, officers, and standards.
- Storage: Magnetize bases and line trays with steel sheet; upright storage prevents bent barrels and scuffed edges.
Common Myths (and the Reality)
- “It’s only for rivet counters.” Not true. Many communities are welcoming—credible colors and good games matter more than perfect hex codes.
- “You need hundreds of models.” You can have great games with two squads and a support team, or a handful of regiments in smaller scales.
- “Historical means dull tables.” Scenic boards with hedgerows, farms, or ruins look incredible—and painting natural textures is satisfying.
Image Suggestions
- Hero banner: A village crossroads table with infantry advancing past stone walls and a field gun on overwatch.
- Progress strip: Grey primer → basecoats → wash → highlight → varnish on a WWII rifleman and a Napoleonic line trooper.
- Scale comparison: 28 mm vs 15 mm vs 6–10 mm models in the same scene.
Link to Shop
Ready to start a project? Explore eras, rules, and paints in our historical hub: Shop Historical Miniatures.
FAQs – Historical Miniatures (tap + to expand)
World War II is the most accessible—good starter boxes, tons of scenarios, and straightforward painting. For mass battles, Napoleonics in smaller scales is a close second.
For platoon‑level WWII, two infantry squads, a support weapon, and either a vehicle or artillery piece gets you playing. For regimental eras, start with 2–3 line units and one artillery battery.
No. Aim for credible tones and consistency across the unit. Real uniforms varied by dye lot, weathering, and laundering.
Both. You’ll find casual narrative groups and organized events with clear missions and scoring. Start casual, then try events when you’re comfortable.
Primer, a basic mid‑tone palette, one wash (brown/sepia), a bright metal, and matte varnish. Brushes: #2 for basecoats, #1 for details, and a small drybrush. Add specialized colors as your project grows.
Batch paint, focus on a single theater, share terrain with friends, and expand one unit at a time. Store and transport models safely to avoid re‑purchases.