How to Use Washes & Inks for Miniatures Painting (Step‑by‑Step Guide)

Great shading makes miniatures pop. Two of the fastest, most reliable tools are washes and inks. In this guide you’ll learn when to use each, exact mix ratios, brush control tricks that prevent tide marks, and advanced techniques like candy‑tinting metallics and pin‑washing panel lines. Whether you paint armies for the table or showcase characters for display, these methods will level up your results—fast.

Washes vs. Inks—What’s the Difference?

• Washes are pre‑thinned, low‑viscosity paints designed to flow into recesses and create natural shadows. They contain surfactants so capillary action does the work for you.
• Inks are high‑tint, transparent colors (dye or ultra‑fine pigment) used to intensify hues, glaze transitions, outline details, or tint metallics. They’re stronger than washes and can stain matte paint if used neat.

Rule of thumb: Use wash to shade (recesses, texture). Use ink to tint (boost color, glaze, line, or candy‑coat metal).

Surface Prep & Finish (Critical for Clean Results)

• Matte surface = grip: Washes stick and stain more, ideal for quick “overall” shading or filters.
• Gloss/satin surface = flow: Washes race to recesses and clean up easily—perfect for pin‑washes and panel lining. A quick satin/gloss varnish before washing gives you maximum control.
• Seal between stages: If you plan multiple ink/wash passes, inter‑coat with a thin satin or matte varnish to lock your progress and prevent reactivation or staining.

Gear & Materials

• Brushes: A mid‑size round (size 1–2) for application; a clean damp brush for wicking excess; a fine liner for panel lines.
• Mediums: Acrylic thinner/medium, flow improver, and distilled water for controlled dilution.
• Varnishes: Satin for pre‑wash control; matte to finish and kill sheen.
• Optional: Odorless thinner + enamel/oil washes if you like classic scale‑model pin‑washing (covered below).

Core Wash Techniques (Brush – No Airbrush Required)

1) Recess Shade (Targeted Wash)

Best for: Armor plates, belts, panel lines, cloth folds.

1. Thin your wash 1:1 with medium/water (stronger if the sculpt is very sharp).
2. Touch the brush to a recess and let capillary action pull the wash along the line.
3. Use a clean damp brush to wick away any puddles before they dry.

Tip: Pre‑wet long grooves with a little clean water—your wash will glide evenly and prevent blotches.

2) Controlled All‑Over Wash (Fast Shading)

Best for: Rank‑and‑file troops (15–28 mm), chainmail, textured cloth.

1. Thin 1:1–1:2 (wash:medium). On 15 mm, you can go a touch stronger.
2. Brush over the whole area, then immediately return to lift excess from flats and raised edges.
3. After it dries, re‑apply your base color on the largest planes for crisp contrast.

3) Coffee‑Stain Prevention

• Work in thin layers—two light passes beat one heavy pass.
• Always pull the wash toward the recess, not across it.
• Dry one section before starting a new one to avoid tide lines where wet meets drying.

Ink Techniques (Glaze, Line, & Candy Tint)

4) Color Glaze (Saturation Boost)

Purpose: Enrich a basecoat without obscuring it.

1. Mix 1 drop ink : 3–5 drops glaze medium : 1–2 drops water.
2. Swipe thin, even layers toward the highlight. Let each coat dry fully.
3. Repeat until you reach the saturation you want.

Use cases: Deepen reds/blues, warm up skin, unify patchy blends.

5) Edge/Panel Lining (Definition)

Purpose: Give crisp separation on armor and gear.

1. Thin ink 1:1 with medium for control (or 2:1 if you need strength).
2. Rest your hand; run the brush along the join line. Capillary action will assist.
3. Clean slips with a damp brush while the ink is fresh.

6) Candy‑Tinted Metallics (TMM “Candy” Look)

Purpose: Jewel‑like colored metal (power weapons, lenses, brass tones).

1. Base with a bright metallic (silver or polished gold).
2. Glaze thin transparent ink (e.g., red, blue, green) at 1:4–1:8 (ink:medium) over the metal until you see the hue.
3. Re‑edge with the metallic to pop reflections; finish with satin/matte to taste.

7) Airbrush Filters (Optional)

Purpose: Subtle color shifts on cloaks, vehicles, or monsters.

• Thin to milk‑water (often 1:8–1:12 ink:thinner/medium).
• Spray in whisper‑thin coats. Build slowly to avoid pooling.

Acrylic vs. Enamel/Oil Washes—When to Use Which

• Acrylic washes are water‑based, fast, and safe over acrylic basecoats. Great for armies and speed.
• Enamel/oil washes level out beautifully and clean up with odorless thinner—ideal for pin‑washing panel lines on vehicles or hard‑edged armor.

Enamel/Oil Pin‑Wash Workflow:

1. Basecoat & highlights with acrylics; gloss varnish the model.
2. Apply enamel/oil wash into lines and around bolts. Capillary action will do most of the work.
3. After ~20–30 minutes, gently clean excess with a thinner‑dampened cotton bud or soft brush, pulling along the panel.
4. Seal with satin/matte varnish and continue weathering.

Safety: Ventilate and keep solvents capped. Use separate brushes for solvent work.

Mix Ratios (Cheat Sheet)

• Recess shade (acrylic wash): 1:1 wash:medium (add a drop of flow improver for long lines).
• All‑over wash (28 mm): 1:1–1:2 wash:medium.
• Glaze (ink): 1:3–1:5 ink:glaze medium + a little water.
• Line work (ink): 1:1 ink:medium (increase strength for very dark lines).
• Candy tint (ink over metal): 1:4–1:8 ink:medium.
• Airbrush filter (ink): 1:8–1:12 ink:thinner/medium.

10 Ready‑to‑Use Recipes

1. Faces (tabletop fast): Flesh base → thin sepia wash in recesses → re‑establish base on cheeks/nose → small light flesh highlight.
2. White cloth: Warm grey base → very thin neutral/black wash → pure white edge highlights on the top folds.
3. Leather straps: Mid‑brown base → brown wash → light tan edge line; add 1–2 tiny scratches with a pale mix.
4. Chainmail: Gunmetal base → black wash → quick silver drybrush → optional sepia spot wash for oily tone.
5. Gold trim (rich): Bright gold base → sepia wash → red‑ink glaze (1:6) for warmth → tiny silver specular edge.
6. Wood stocks: Mid‑brown → brown wash → thin horizontal ink streaks to suggest grain → soft tan highlight on edges.
7. Green fatigues: Olive base → brown‑green wash → olive highlight → desaturated final edge for realism.
8. Blue armor panels: Mid‑blue → navy/black recess shade → blue‑ink glaze to boost saturation → sharp sky‑blue edge.
9. Bone & horns: Bone base → sepia wash → bone highlight → tiny white dot on tips.
10. Vehicle panel lines (pin‑wash): Satin/gloss varnish → enamel/oil dark brown in lines → clean with thinner → matte varnish.

Troubleshooting (Quick Fixes)

• Tide marks/rings: You laid it on too thick or dried unevenly. Re‑wet the edge with clean water and feather; or glaze the base color to hide it.
• Chalky finish: Over‑thinning with hard tap water or too much matte medium. Switch to distilled water, add a touch of glaze medium, and work in lighter coats.
• Shiny patches after wash: Finish with a thin matte varnish. If you like a little sheen on leather/metal, spot coat satin there.
• Staining from strong inks: Use satin varnish first, then glaze. Build color slowly instead of one heavy pass.
• Pooling on flats: Wick with a clean brush; rotate the model so gravity pulls into the recess you actually want shaded.

Workflow Examples

Tabletop Army Speed Pass (per unit of 10)

1. Prime (optional zenithal).
2. Block base colors (skin, cloth, leather, metal).
3. Controlled all‑over wash on cloth/leather; targeted recess shade on armor and belts.
4. Re‑establish base on raised areas; single edge highlight; spot ink glazes to enrich key colors.
5. Matte varnish to unify; basing; tiny pop highlights on leaders.

Display Character Pass

1. Base + mid highlight.
2. Recess shade with a cool wash in shadows (blue‑black for steel, purple‑brown for red cloth).
3. Multiple ink glazes for color depth and transitions.
4. Candy‑tint metallics; pin‑wash fine lines.
5. Selective matte/satin varnish to control finish.

Finish Control (Matte vs. Satin)

• Matte overall gives realistic cloth and kills sheen from dried washes.
• Satin spots on leather, oiled wood, gemstones, and candy‑coated metal sell material differences.

Image Suggestions

• Hero banner: Side‑by‑side of “before wash” vs “after wash” on armor and cloth.
• Technique grid: Recess shade, controlled wash, ink glaze, candy‑tinted metallic—four close‑up panels.
• Troubleshooting: Photo showing how to wick a pooling wash with a clean brush.

Link to Shop

Build your shading and glazing toolkit—transparent inks and focused washes are in stock here: AK Interactive Inks & Shading Supplies.

FAQs – Washes & Inks (tap + to expand)